Where Does the Banarasi Saree Come From?

The Banarasi saree takes its name from Banaras — the ancient name of Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities. Silk weaving in Varanasi dates back at least 600 years, but the style of Banarasi saree we recognise today was heavily shaped during the Mughal era (16th–18th centuries). The Mughal court's love for luxurious Persian textiles — dense floral patterns, intricate lattice (jaal) work, and gold and silver brocade — fused with the established Indian silk-weaving tradition in Varanasi to create something entirely unique.

The Mughal Influence on Banarasi Design

Emperor Akbar (1556–1605) is credited with bringing Persian weaving masters to Varanasi to work alongside local Kashi weavers. The result was a new vocabulary of motifs that remains the hallmark of Banarasi sarees to this day:

  • Jaal (lattice/net) — an all-over net of tiny geometric or floral shapes covering the body of the saree, borrowed directly from Persian carpet design.
  • Buta/Buti — small isolated motifs (flowers, paisleys, leaves) scattered across the fabric. When a buti becomes large enough to dominate, it becomes a buta.
  • Shikargah (hunting scene) — a rare and prestigious motif depicting Mughal hunting expeditions: elephants, horses, trees, and deer in a repeating forest scene.
  • Meenakari — a technique of adding coloured silk threads into the zari work to create multicoloured enamel-like effects, named after Rajasthani meenakari jewellery.

The Four Types of Banarasi Sarees

Not all Banarasi sarees are the same. There are four main varieties, each with a different base fabric and character:

  • Pure silk (Katan) — the most prestigious, woven from pure twisted silk threads. Heavy, lustrous, and opulent. True bridal-grade Banarasi.
  • Organza (Kora) — woven from raw silk, giving a stiff, semi-transparent texture. Often used for the pallu with heavy zari work, and the body in a lighter fabric.
  • Georgette — a softer, crinkled weave that drapes fluidly. More comfortable for long events, popular for wedding guests and reception wear.
  • Shattir — a satin-based weave with extra weft threads that create a rich, almost three-dimensional texture. Very heavy, suited to winter festivals and formal occasions.

How to Identify an Authentic Banarasi Saree

The Banarasi saree has a GI (Geographical Indication) tag, meaning only sarees woven in Varanasi and a few adjacent districts can legally be called Banarasi. However, a large number of machine-made and power-loom imitations are sold as authentic. Here is what to look for:

  • Check the reverse — on a genuine handwoven Banarasi, the back of the saree shows the zari thread running loosely between motifs (called floats). Machine-made sarees have a clean, closed reverse with no floating threads.
  • Feel the weight — pure silk Banarasi sarees are heavy. If a saree is very light and flimsy but claims to be pure silk Banarasi, it probably is not.
  • Look for the GI tag — since 2009, authentic Banarasi sarees can carry a silk mark and Banarasi GI tag. Ask your seller for it.
  • Price is an indicator — a genuine handwoven Banarasi katan silk saree takes 15–30 days to weave and is sold for ₹5,000–₹1,00,000+. Prices significantly below this range almost certainly indicate power-loom production.

Banarasi Sarees in Modern India

Despite the popularity of designer lehengas, the Banarasi saree remains the single most popular bridal outfit in North India. No dowry in UP, Bihar, or Bengal is considered complete without at least one Banarasi. Bollywood has repeatedly celebrated the Banarasi — from Madhuri Dixit's iconic dance sequences to the red Banarasi worn by Deepika Padukone in Piku — cementing its status as a cultural touchstone rather than simply a garment.

At MNEME, we carry a handpicked selection of authentic Banarasi sarees. Browse our Banarasi collection — delivered free across India.